With so much emphasis on classic makeup trends such as smokey eyes and bold lips, the art of eyebrow shaping seems to have gotten lost in the shuffle. Newsflash: your eyebrows want some tender loving care, too! Learn how to take care of your pair and you will immediately wonder how you could have neglected them for this long!
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I once had a friend who completely changed her eyebrows. Shape, color, brow filler; everything! It was embarrassing how long it took for me to realize what was different about her (Botox may or may not have been included in my guessing. No lie.) Never, EVER underestimate the power of a perfectly groomed brow!
Think eyebrow shaping is only for the pros? Think again! Read below for an easy lesson on how to whip your brows into the best “shape” they have ever been in! I guarantee you will have people asking, “What is different about you?”
Clean ’em up
Comb the brows upwards, and remove all stray hairs that grow below your natural arch. Pulling the skin taut when using a pair of tweezers will make the process virtually pain free. Next, use a small scissor, try Tweezerman Brow Shaping Scissors and Brush Kit $18, to trim the long hairs (I like to call over-achievers) that extend above the rest. Fight the urge to remove anything on top. By cleaning the brows from below only, you are creating a lifted, well-rested appearance.
Shape ’em up
Choose your brow filler:
Now that you have removed all unwanted hairs, your brows are perfectly prepped to be shaped. First decide upon your choice of brow filler. The market has many different products available depending on your needs. For thin brows, it is best to use a gel, powder, or wax containing fibers that mimic a natural brow hair. For average to full brows that have a few bald spots, I recommend using a pencil or powder. No matter what you choose, it is important to apply with small wispy strokes while brushing it through as you fill. This will ensure you do not end up with brows that look painted on (cringe!)
Find your color:
If you were blessed with naturally dark brows, use a color that is one or two shades lighter. The purpose of filling in the brows is to accentuate their shape, not to deepen a dark brow.
For eyebrows that are gray or extremely blonde, find a shade that is a bit darker. In both cases, keep in mind the tone of your brows. Anything red based will look artificial against an ashy brow hair; conversely, an ashy color will not look right amidst a warm-toned brow.
Use the illustrations as a guide to create your perfect shape.
One picture displays (1) where the brow should begin, (2) where the highest point of the arch should rest, and (3) where the brows should end. Every eye shape is different; therefore, every brow shape should be different. A great brow will define the eyes, consequently framing the face. Always fill in starting at the top. DO NOT apply brow product below the arch where there is no hair. This will counteract all the hard work you put in cleaning them up!
The other chart displays where highlighter can be applied as a finishing touch to really make your brows pop. Instead of using a highlighter with shimmer here, try a concealer that is two shades lighter than your skin tone. This is the best way to show case your new and improved set instead of drawing attention to the highlighter itself.
*Illustrations drawn by Paul Aquino. Check out “Paul Aquino Artist Studio” on Facebook to see his work or email PaulDAquino@yahoo. com for requests.
Rachel Paul is a New York based makeup artist, encouraging and training women to be their most beautiful self. Follow @rosecolored_glasses on Instagram.